Q: Will installing aftermarket products void my factory warranty?
A: This is a very common question we get, to put it simply, no. According to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975, a dealer cannot VOID your vehicle
warranty, simply because an after market part has been installed in the car.
Q: What is the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act?
A: The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is a federal law that protects consumer’s warranty rights. A portion of the law addresses warranty rights regarding the
use and installation of after market (non-OEM) equipment.
Q: In plain English, what is the law’s intention?
A: Basically, the law states that a consumer has the right to use after market, non-OEM parts on his/her car and still retain the factory warranty. Obviously if
there is a failure and the manufacturer can prove that the failure was caused by the after market part, warranty coverage on that failure may be denied.
Q: Why did my dealer tell me that if I install after market equipment, my warranty would be void?
A: It's possible the person at the dealership does not understand there is a law in effect specifically prohibiting such a statement.
Q: How can they not know about the law?
A: Many dealers do not like warranty work because it pays less than normal repair work. By promoting the myth that after market equipment automatically
voids warranties, dealers are able to avoid the lower paying warranty work. Some dealers may attempt to charge customers the prime service rate for work
which should be rightfully done under warranty, and at no charge.
Q: What should I do if my dealer is claiming they will void or have voided my warranty due to the installation of after market products?
A: A dealer must first prove, not just say, that after market equipment caused the need for repairs before he can deny warranty coverage on that basis. It is
recommended to first inform the dealer that such a law exists and that they could be in violation of such law. The law can be found in it's entirety at the
Federal Trade Commission’s website...... www.ftc.gov.
Additionally, if you are being unfairly denied warranty coverage, there is recourse. The Federal Trade Commission, which administers the Magnuson-Moss
Warranty Act, monitors compliance with warranty issues. Direct complaints to the FTC can be made at (202) 326-3128.
Q: If I install a new stereo, can I still use my steering wheel controls?
A: Yes, but you’ll end up paying around 100 dollars to retain them.
Q: How can I connect my iPod®? What’s the difference between using an AUX cable and a USB connector?
A: When you want to play your iPod in the car, the two most common options are running a cable from the iPod’s headphone jack to your stereo’s AUX input,
or using your iPod’s cable and plugging into a USB input. An AUX connection tends to transmit some background noise, and you’ll have to control the tunes
from the iPod itself — not the safest way to do it if you’re driving. The USB connection, on the other hand, transmits no background noise, gives you control
from the receiver, and charges your player all at once. In many cases the receiver also processes the sound, something it’s designed to do better than your
iPod, especially in an amplified system.
Q: Can my factory speakers handle a high-powered CD receiver?
A: Your factory speakers should have no problem handling the output from one of our high-powered in-dash CD receivers, but there are limits to their
performance. Turn up your new radio with the car sitting still, make a note of the volume level at which your factory speakers start to distort, and avoid
cranking the radio up past that point. Speaker performance is critical to listening enjoyment. We recommend adding quality, after market speakers as soon as
you can, so that you can really take full advantage of the big, rich sound your new receiver has to offer.
Q: How much power does my factory system have?
A: While we don't have exact power ratings for the every system in specific vehicles, we can tell you that factory systems traditionally have less power than
after market units. Bear in mind that the 100-watt factory system described by your car dealer probably consists of 4 channels of 25 watts at peak power. This
translates to roughly 10 watts RMS (continuous) x 4 — substantial power. This is a far cry from the power ratings of most current after market CD receivers.
Even if your factory system seems relatively powerful, there are still benefits to going with an after market receiver. These advantages typically include
better overall specs, built-in features like Bluetooth® connectivity, iPod® controls, MP3/WMA/AAC file playback from disc, USB input for media players and
thumb drives, more extensive tone control, easier (and less expensive) integration with other equipment like amplifiers, and the enhanced reliability you can
expect from a recognized audio brand name.
Q: How much power do I need to get optimum performance from my car's sound system?
A: Since every car stereo is different, there's no magic "wattage formula." As long as you stay within the recommended power range of your speakers,
increasing power will always add richness and depth to your music. Compare a spinet piano to a concert grand. The small piano is good enough to play music
clearly, but move up to a grand and you'll gain better tone, greater harmonic detail, and more volume. The larger instrument is simply more powerful.
Q: How "power" efficient are my speakers?
A: Your speakers themselves have a direct influence on the overall "power" of your system. If you're planning on powering your speakers with an in-dash
receiver, efficient speakers with a sensitivity of 90 dB or higher will definitely give you more bang for your buck. However, installing high-performance
component speakers combined with an outboard amp will generate total maximum performance.
Q: I'm thinking of adding a subwoofer. What do I need to know?
A: Subs need substantial amounts of power to reproduce the lowest tones, so it's essential to use an outboard amplifier with them. You should count on
using more power for bass than you use to power all of your full-range speakers. If your receiver puts out 20 watts RMS x 4 channels (80 watts total), you
should send at least 80 watts to your sub. Using a 50 watt x 4 amp to drive your components? Dedicate at least 200 watts for just for bass.
Q: Why are wiring cables important?
A: Your system's chain of components is only as strong as its weakest link, so don't cheat your amps and speakers with substandard power cables and
speaker wire. No one buys an HDTV, only to run coaxial cable to it.
Q: My car has an over sized factory radio. Why can't I replace it with an over sized after market receiver?
A: "Oversized" receivers come in two different sizes:
3" tall (or DIN-and-a-half) slot found in many GM/Chrysler vehicles.
4" tall (or Double-DIN) opening in many other vehicles.
If the dimensions of your car's dash opening differ by even a fraction of an inch from these standard over sized openings, you won't be able to install one of
these over sized after market radios without modifying your dash. Many Fords, for instance, appear to have Double-DIN openings — in reality, the opening is
a little too small. In some vehicles, the bracket system that holds the factory radio in place won't work with an over sized after market receiver. Thats why you
should leave the installing to our experienced installers!